no longer available on the website

Whit’s Knits: Sullivan Street Bolero
February 22, 2008

The Materials
• 7 skeins of the Fibre Company’s Road to China, 65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, 10% cashmere (80 yards per skein) (I used the color “Garnet”.)
• A 24 or 32 inch US# 7 circular needle
• A 16 or 20 inch US #6 circular needle
• A 32 or 40 inch US # 6 circular needle
• Stitch markers
• A tapestry needle

Note: Although the photography greatly exaggerates the actual color difference between skeins, it does exist. To me the subtle shifts in color are part of the beauty and charm of hand dyed yarns. If you find it uncharming, be sure to alternate skeins as you knit (ie knit two rows with one skein and then two rows with another so that they blend together.)

Gauge
5 stitches = 1 inch with US #7 needle in 2x2 rib pattern
4 1/2 stitches = 1 inch with US #7 needle in stockinette stitch

Finished Size
Fits 36 inch - 42 inch chest

Knitting the Bottom Edge
With US #7 needle, cast on 90 stitches.
Row 1: Knit through the front and back loop (kfb), k1, p2, k2, repeat from to last 4 stitches, p2, k1, kfb. (92 stitches)
Row 2: Kfb, work in the 2 x 2 rib pattern, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches, to the last stitch, kfb. (94 stitches)
Rows 3 - 20: Repeat Row 2. (18 times) (130 stitches)

Knitting the Right Front
Row 1 (right side): Kfb, k1, p2, k2, rep from 5 more times, p2, slip slip knit (ssk), place a marker (26 stitches on right needle). Turn the work to start knitting back across the 26 stitches just knit. (Note: You will only be working on these stitches for this section of the pattern.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern.
Row 3: Kfb, work in rib pattern to 2 stitches before marker, ssk. (26 stitches)
Row 4: Work in rib pattern.
Row 5: Kfb, work in rib pattern to marker. (27 stitches)
Row 6: Work in rib pattern.
Rows 7-14: Repeat Rows 3-6 (2 times). (29 stitches)
Row 15: Work in rib pattern.
Row 16: Work in rib pattern.
Row 17: Kfb, work in rib pattern to marker. (30 stitches)
Row 18-24: Work in rib pattern.
Just to check in, at this point the right front measures about 4.25 inches from beginning of armhole.
Row 25: K2tog, work in rib pattern to marker. (29 stitches)
Row 26-28: Work in rib pattern.
Row 29: K2tog, work in rib pattern to marker. (28 stitches)
Row 30: Work in rib pattern.
Row 31: Work in rib pattern to 1 stitch before marker, kfb. (29 stitches)
Row 32: Work in rib pattern.
Row 33-40: Repeat Rows 29-32 (2 times). (29 stitches)
Row 41: K2tog, work in rib pattern to 1 stitch before marker, kfb. (29 stitches)
Put these 29 stitches on a holder. Cut the yarn.

Knitting the Back
Start with new yarn on the right side of the back, at the right end:

Row 1 (right side): Working in the rib pattern, bind off 11 stitches, p2, k2, repeat from 12 more times, p2, ssk, place a marker (56 stitches on the right needle and 36 stitches on the left needle). Turn the work to start knitting back across the 56 stitches just knit. (Note: You will only be working on these stitches for this section of the pattern.)
Row 2 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern.
Row 3: K2tog, work in rib pattern to 2 stitches before marker, ssk. (54 stitches)
Row 4-6: Work in rib pattern.
Rows 7-14: Repeat Rows 3-6 (2 times). (50 stitches)
Rows 15-30: Work in rib pattern.
Row 31: Kfb, work in rib pattern to 1 stitch before marker, kfb.(52 stitches)
Rows 32-34: Work in rib pattern.
Row 35-38: Repeat Rows 31-34 (1 time). (54 stitches)
Row 39: Kfb, work in rib pattern to 1 st before marker, kfb. (56 stitches)
Row 40: Work in rib pattern.
Row 41: Repeat Row 39. (58 stitches)
Place these 58 stitches onto stitch holders, and cut the yarn.

Knitting the Left Front
Start with new yarn on the right side of the left front:

Row 1 (right side): Working in the rib pattern, bind off 11 stitches, work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (26 stitches)
Row 2 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern.
Row 3: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (26 stitches)
Row 4: Work in rib pattern.
Row 5: Work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (27 stitches)
Row 6: Work in rib pattern.
Row 7-14: Repeat Rows 3-6 (2 times). (29 stitches)
Row 15-16: Work in rib pattern.
Row 17: Work in rib pattern to last stitch, kfb. (30 stitches)
Row 18-24: Work in rib pattern.
Row 25: Work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (29 stitches)
Row 26-28: Work in rib pattern.
Rows 29: Repeat Row 25. (28 stitches)
Row 30: Work in rib pattern.
Row 31: Kfb, work in rib pattern to end. (29 stitches)
Row 32: Work in rib pattern.
Row 33: Work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (28 stitches)
Row 34: Work in rib pattern.
Row 35-38: Repeat Rows 31-34. (28 stitches)
Row 39: Kfb, work in rib pattern to end. (29 stitches)
Row 40: Work in rib pattern.
Row 41: Kfb, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (29 stitches)

Knitting the Collar
Row 1 (wrong side): Work in rib pattern to end of left front. Using the a Cable Cast On, cast on 10 st. To do this, turn the work around so the right side is facing you. Insert your right needle between the first and second stitch on the left needle (not into a stitch).

Knit the stitch and pull it out between the same 2 stitches.

Loosely, place the stitch from the right needle onto the left needle without twisting it.

One stitch cast on!

Repeat this process 9 more times, inserting the right needle between the first two stitches, knitting it, putting it back on the left needle.
Continuing Row 1: After casting on 10 stitches, you will join the left front to the back simply by knitting the stitches right off the stitch holders. Work in rib pattern across back. Use the Cable Cast On method again to cast on 10 stitches. Continue to work in the rib pattern across the right front stitches to the end. (136 stitches)

Row 2 (right side): Work in rib pattern.
Row 3: Work in rib pattern.
Row 4: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (134 stitches)
Row 5 - 7: Work in rib pattern.
Row 8: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (132 stitches)
Row 9-20: Repeat Rows 5-8 (3 times). (126 stitches)
Row 21: Work in rib pattern.
Row 22: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (124 stitches)
Row 23-34: Repeat Rows 21-22 (6 times). (112 stitches)
Row 35: K2tog, work in rib pattern to last 2 stitches, ssk. (110 stitches)
Rows 36-38: Repeat Row 35 (3 times). (104 stitches)
Row 39: Bind off 2 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (102 stitches)
Row 40: Repeat Row 39 (1 time). (100 stitches)
Row 41: Bind off 3 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (97 stitches)
Row 42: Repeat Row 41 (1 time). (94 stitches)
Row 43: Bind off 4 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (90 stitches)
Row 44: Repeat Row 43 (1 time). (86 stitches)
Row 45: Bind off 5 stitches, work in rib pattern to end. (81 stitches)
Row 46: Repeat Row 45 (1 time). (76 stitches).
Row 47: Bind off all stitches in rib pattern.
Here’s what the bolero looks like now, kind of like a weird mask…

Knitting the Edges
You’re going to knit several rows of garter stitch all around the outside edge and along the two armhole edges.
Starting with the armholes: Using a 16 or 20 inch US #6 needle and with the right side facing you, start at point “a” and pick up 30 stitches by the time you get to point “b”. Pick up 10 stitches between “b” and “c” ; 30 stitches between “c” and “d”; and 10 stitches between “d” and “a”. 80 stitches total (give or take a few…)

Place a marker and join for working in the round. (I put markers at each point so I don’t have to count stitches from the beginning every time I lose track of how many stitches I’ve picked up.)

Round 1: Knit all stitches.
Round 2: Purl all stitches.
Rounds 3 and 4: Repeat Rounds 1 and 2.
Round 5: Bind off all stitches in knit.

Repeat for other armhole.
Now try on the bolero. Mark with scrap yarn the place on each side where the collar starts to flip over. You will pick up the stitches from the wrong side between those two markers (more on that when we get to it…).

Fold the bolero in half to make sure the two scrap yarns are symmetrically placed. Move them a little if you have to.

Using a 32 or 40 inch US#6 needle pick up 18 stitches between point “A” and point “B”.

Pick up 72 stitches between “B” and “C”, but when you get to the scrap yarn, instead of picking up the stitches by knitting them, pick them up by purling them. To do this, first bring the yarn forward to purl.

Now bring the needle from the back of the work through the stitch you’re picking up, toward you.

Then purl the stitch.

The messy seam side now faces you instead of facing the back side of the work.

Continuing to purl like this, pick up 66 stitches between “C” and “D”; and 72 stitches between “D” and “E”. Make sure you pick up the same number of stitches between “D” and the scrap yarn as you did between the scrap yarn and “C”. Also, switch back to picking up in knit stitch when you get to the scrap yarn.
Pick up 18 stitches between “E” and “F”; and 74 stitches between “F” and “A”. 320 stitches total (about…). Place a marker and join for working in the round.
Round 1: Knit
Round 2: Purl
Round 3: Knit
Round 4: Purl
Round 5: Bind off in knit.
One last thing. When you sew in the ends that are in the collar area, make sure to sew them into the side that won’t be showing (remember that the collar flips back!).
And you’re done!

Article originally appeared on Knitting Crochet Sewing Embroidery Crafts Patterns and Ideas! (http://www.purlbee.com/).