This would be really cute as a short-sleeved top. May need to make one out of a summery yarn. (See WIP photo before sleeves were started.)

The way the yoke pattern incorporates the decreases is ingenious.

Started with a provisional cast-on and made the yoke first. It was a little bigger than most of my sweaters, but I figured it would be fine. But if I knit it again, I’ll take out one repeat.

Put the provisional stitches on a spare needle, then started the body and sleeves as follows:

1. With main needle and the working yarn, cast on 4 stitches.
2. Knit 88 stitches from the spare needle for the back.
3. Put the next 55 stitches on waste yarn for the right sleeve.
4. With the working yarn, cast on 4 sts onto the main needle. Place a marker for the side “seam”, then cast on another 4 sts.
5. Knit 88 stitches from the spare needle for the front.
6. Put the next 55 stitches on waste yarn for the left sleeve.
7. With the working yarn and main needle, cast on 4 sts. Place a marker for the end of round and side “seam”.

All body stitches should now be on the main needle, and the stitches for the two sleeves should be on waste yarn. (Total of 8 sts for the underarm, not 10, since there is no seam.)

Short rows: Work across the back to 10 stitches past the next marker, w&t. Purl back to 10 stitches past the other marker, w&t. Continue the short rows, wrapping the stitch prior to the previously wrapped stitch until 4 stitches have been wrapped on each side. Then work in the round, working the wraps together with their wrapped stitches on the first round.

For the body:

Worked down from the provisional cast-on, with phony seams at each side.

I had the body worked down to the hem, with “princess seam” waist shaping on the front and back. Although it looked good in the front, I didn’t like how it looked in the back - there were just too many stitches, and the back puffed out above the waist shaping. Ripped the entire body back to the yoke. Decreased 6 stitches along the back by doing a K2tog at each “point” of the pattern, but left the front alone.

2nd time: Worked some bust darts between the bust and the waist on the front only. No other waist shaping. Much happier. Made the top really long. I was going to do a turned hem, so I worked 2 purl rounds, then an inch of stockinette for a facing, decreasing 10% of stitches on the first round of the hem. Rather than hemming with the live stitches, which I usually do, I cast off loosely. Then I decided I liked the way the facing rolled up to the purl ridges, so I’ll probably leave it that way.

For the sleeves, put the stitches from the waste yarn onto the needle, and pick up 8 stitches from the underarm, placing a marker at the center of the 8 underarm stitches. Work sleeve down in the round, with a phony seam. Instead of the bell sleeves, just decreased every inch for tapered sleeves. Finished the same way as the bottom hem.

Geranium leaves: The name “phyllo” comes from phyllotaxis, or the arrangement of leaves on the stem of a plant. The yarn colorway is Geranium.