17-02-2020

Well I’m not off to the best start. Still trying to figure out (given that BOR is set with marker at the 3 knit st before first sleeve rib) which sleeve is knit first - left or right. I sense it would help if the pattern indicated, in so many words, which are the front 33 st and which are the back 33 st - cuz that would confirm which is the left sleeve and which is the right. The instructions imply that you knit the right sleeve first which doesn’t make sense to me but then I’m all turned around by short rows at the moment…

About The Short Rows: I’m so pleased that the pattern includes back neck shaping short rows because I sense it will ameliorate the issue I had with pulling at the front and back neck, just below the turtleneck, when I recently made the Comfort Zone (there are lots of notes on this in my pattern page for the Comfort Zone pattern).

Picking up the GSRs (aka “wraps”): I’ve attempted (and failed) to do the short rows once already - I had to rip back because the instruction “after last turn, knit to BOR marker, working GSRs as you come to them” somehow read, to me, as if you pick up all of the “wraps” on the public facing side of the garment - but that has left large holes in one side of my knitting. I should look up view a tutorial that shows how to pick up GSRs in the round… Just remembered this one - wish I’d looked at it before I made it up! https://pattylyons.com/2018/06/germanshortrowsintheround/

Though the instructions are entirely correct, it would have been helpful to me if the pattern had clarified that half of the GSRs are picked up on the wrong side.

Second time around I seem to have figured out how to pick up the GSRs (half on wrong side half on front side) but I messed up one of them (the last one on the purl side which I picked up at the end of working the first post-short row RS row. I’m sure I did this wrong though it’s looking pretty good.

I understand that this beautiful design is generously provided free of charge - which is awesome and a wonderful way to give knitters a lovely gift. I recognize that the role of a free pattern is not to teach people about technique. But - to have clearly indicated the way to merge the pattern directions, with the link to the Very Pink Knits tutorial, would be quite helpful - esp for those who’ve not done any short rows before and given that the online tutorial is one that shows knitting these on a flat piece of knitting and this pattern is knitted in the round. I’ve done lots of W&T short rows and have some (though not a ton) of experience with GSRs, mainly knit flat, and my experience was of minimal help to me when picking up the GSRs in the round. I just don’t do them often enough…

It’s only on this basis that I don’t necessarily recommend this lovely - and otherwise straight-forward - garment for a total newbie.

One other piece of advice: When doing the short rows, I have found it best to use magic loop on a 40” cable. Otherwise there’s not enough slack to do the wrong side rows. Mind you, I know some people have more luck working with 16” cables than I do. Just saying, 32 inch cable for the magic loop during the short row section is too tight and makes the process trickier than it needs to be.

Raglan Increase Section Happy to say that the increases are described very clearly and I find the rate of increase to be very intriguing!

I like to actually write out all of the stitch numbers, per section, before I get going and then I can check, at any time, to confirm I’m on track with any section. For example:

Starting stitch count (before first raglan inc row):

Right Sleeve / Front / Left Sleeve / Back
15 / 33 / 15 / 33 = Total 96 st for XS

Then for each of the XS size 51 rows that make up 12, 4-row repeats, followed by 1 more repeat of rows 1-3, I keep track of how those numbers change. The first four-row repeat shown below, as example:

Row 1: 15 / 35 / 15 / 35 (+4 st)
Row 2: 17 / 37 / 17 / 37 (+8 st)
Row 3: 17 / 37 / 17 / 37 (+0 st)
Row 4: 19 / 39 / 19 / 39 (+8 st) Total at end: 116 st

I also like to colour code the markers to help me keep track of what section I’m increasing on and where the increases should be worked:

BOR marker aka Marker 8 aka Raglan Marker 4: Green
K side sleeve
Marker 1 - Orange
Sleeve Rib
Marker 2 - Orange
K side sleeve
Marker 3 aka Raglan Marker 1: Blue
K Front
Marker 4 aka Raglan Marker 2: Blue
K side sleeve
Marker 5: Orange
Sleeve Rib
Marker 6: Orange
K side sleeve
Marker 7 aka Raglan Marker 3: Blue

23-02-2020

After the short row section, the rest of the garment is very straight forward and, at this gauge, things knit up quickly.

01-03-2020

I’m at 7.5” from under arm and I think I need to do another 2.5” - 3” before starting the rib - but I’ll revisit that as I knit. Update:I knit this to 13” in length, if I remember correctly, before I ripped it back. That got me to within a row or 2 of cast off.

08-03-2020

On larger needles, I knit sleeve to 13” before ribbing and 17R twisted rib cuff, then BO in pattern - ktbl on the k stitches. Gives a wrist-length sleeve that might grow or shrink a bit based on blocking but will likely remain the same.

The part where I rip out the body…

So - I tried it on when just about complete (only needed to bind off hem), and I had to admit that this boxy shape is really not attractive on my body.

I really like the turtleneck, the twisted rib sleeves and the raglan. So I’ve ripped back the body to the end of the raglan increase section and I intend to reknit the body with lots of decreases. I want to get from the 43” XS circumference (at my gauge) down to 34” - not super fitted but legit shaped because my breasts are rather projected and proportionately large compared with the rest of my frame. I’d do well to emphasize my waist and hips to make this garment optimally suited to my dimensions and my style…

After ripping to underarms, I’m back at 226 stitches (113 F, 113 B), the instructed number based on XS (well prob 2 rows below the sleeve cast on cuz I didn’t want to mess with the very row where the sleeves meet the body in case that were to go badly).

My raglans are slightly longer than I’d prefer. I have a high armscye and I’m short. For me, an inch less long in the raglan would have been more fitted but I’m not ripping the sleeves out and I think the current length looks just fine.

As such, I’ll hit my true waist prob about 7” below the end of the raglan/start of sleeves. In a set in sleeve sweater, with correct armscye depth of ~7”, my true waist would be 8” below the armpit.

I have to get from my starting circumference 226st (43” at my gauge) to 178st (34” at my gauge) within 7ish inches of vertical depth. That’s 48st over 7 inches - or approx 55 rows, given my gauge.

If I decrease 4 st per decrease row, that’s 12 decrease rows in 55 rows total.

• Round 1 - First decrease row (a couple of rounds below sleeve cast on),
• Then do a second decrease row 4 round later (because you didn’t start right at the base of the raglan but a couple of rounds below).
• Thereafter work a decrease round every 5 rounds and you’ll have decreased 48st by round 55!

Waist shaping rows: K to 3 st before orange side marker, ssk, k1, sl marker, k1, k2tog repeat * - (this side has the BOR green marker). Note that the final k2tog is worked in the first 3 st of the BOR. The BOR marker is at the underarm of the left sleeve…

11-03-2020

If you decide to make the sweater the same length as the Custom Fit sweater with the yellow sleeves, then make the length ~18.5” from underarm (check as you go - prob more like 17.5” in this case) AND you’ll want to get to 38” of circumference for hip. (Work out this math later.)

If you go for a more cropped sweater, then you’ll likely not need to do the increases…

15-03-2020

OK -the decrease version is SO much more attractive on me, IMO. I’m really glad I ripped it back. Somehow, at 55R from armpit I’m at 8.5” below armscye. I do realize that the swatch indicates that there will be some vertical shrinkage with this yarn but it’s always surprising to see how things knit up.

Option 1: Do 9 more inches of stockinette - full hip length at rib hem.

I’ll do 7 more inches before twisted rib, then 2 inches of twisted rib. But… I’m going to need to do increases if I’m going to fit this over my hips. Here’s the proposed approach:

• Work 4 inches straight at 178st (aka 34” circ) for waist.
• Then begin increases to get to 38” circ at full hip. At my gauge, that’ll be 21st. Let’s call it 20 st for sake of ease.
• I’ll inc 4 st per inc row which means I’ll have 5 inc rows altogether. At the end of those 5 inc rows, I’ll be at 198st circ. If this isn’t quite enough circ, I can always add another inc row…
• To do 4 inc rows over 3 inches (or 24 vertical rows) - that’s 1 inc row, every 6th row.

Option 2: Shorter sweater (prob about 15” from underarm), 34” at waist and down to high hip (no increases). This is the option I’ve decided I’m going for.

16-03-2020

Pre-blocked measurements (aim to block to this):

Raglan depth: 9.5” on the diagonal, 7.25”
Inner raglan to inner raglan (analogous to shoulder width): 6.75”
Underarm to hip hem: 14.75” (block this to 15.5”)
Circ at underarm: 40”
Bust circ: 38”
Waist circ: 34”
Hip circ (same st count as waist but rib): Scant 28”
Height of turtle neck: scant 3”
Width of turtle neck: Forgot to check but it was fine…
Sleeve circ: Impossible to say (except by using gauge math) because the sleeves are very crinkly, pre-blocking.
Sleeve length: 15.25”

Post-blocked measurements:

Raglan depth: 9.5” on the diagonal, 6.5” vertical
Inner raglan to inner raglan (analogous to shoulder width): 6.5”
Underarm to hip hem: 15.5”
Circ at underarm: 36”
Bust circ: 35”
Waist circ: 33”
Hip circ (same st count as waist but rib): 30”
Height of turtle neck: 2.75”
Width of turtle neck: 6.5”
Sleeve circ: Haven’t checked yet…
Sleeve length: 15.25”

First Impressions: One of the most fun things about Espace Tricot patterns is that they really do express “northern fashion”. For those of us who live with serious winter for 5-6 months of the year, this is the kind of sweater you can ski and skate in, wear as a layer or use as a spring sweater (with a light jacket or even on its own). I am very happy to have changed the shape of the bodice to suit my body type. An added bonus is that it makes the sweater that much easier to use as a single layer because my version is longer than the draft and fitted (so probably warmer overall - if less likely to be worn with something underneath).

I really like the turtleneck and twisted rib feature that runs down the arm - very sporty but also elegant. The angle of the raglan is really lovely.

I will say that it’s WARM at this gauge, esp with 2 yarns held double. I’d love to make this in a sport or fingering weight for different versatility.

I’ll also say that, even though I got gauge (or adjusted with knowledge of my gauge), this is a big sweater. If you are a person with wide shoulders, long torso or bigger frame, this is likely to fit you better, just as written, than if you are a short, narrow framed, small-boned person with projected boobs.

To suit my shape, I made the following general alterations:

• Made the turtle neck a scant 3”, not 4” (it’s still a full turtle on me, but I don’t like to feel suffocated and folding it down ain’t my thing).
• Shortened the sleeves slightly for bracelet length
• Decreased the bodice circumference gradually, from underarm to waist, to remove ~9 inches of ease from the XS. Truth: This thing looked like a sack on me before I ripped the shape-free bodice back and made this alteration. All of the elegance was obfuscated by the shapelessness on me.
• Added a good 5 inches of length. Note that I was able to repurpose yarn removed from the bodice circumference to add 2 extra inches of length (that’s with the same amount of yarn).

Does this change the vibe of the sweater? I don’t know yet. Waiting for it to dry and try on and then I’ll have a better sense. Nonetheless, the original torso-shaping didn’t work on me and this altered version does.

About the yarns: I’ve worked many times with Rowan Fine Lace and I think it’s a worthy sub for lace-weight mohair/silk. It’s plied (which I prefer over singles). It’s beautifully dyed and quite luxe looking, esp. given the price. I wasn’t over the moon about this shade of blue (it was darker than I was looking for) but I bought it unseen and it was not returnable, so that’s the way the cookie crumbled.

The darker yarn bothered me more than it would have if I were just using it alone because I feel it did change the complexion of the Julie Asselin Fino which is colour perfection. Everything about it is top notch. I would have held the Fino single if I’d been willing to do more math / making this sweater at a totally diff gauge. But I didn’t know if I’d have enough of it. In retrospect, I would have.

Very interesting feature of the marl I chose to knit with: It looks like distressed denim.

While I think the look of mohair is lovely when the yarn colours are very low contrast (the way that Espace Tricot tends to marl), with higher contrast (my fabric), I feel it does somewhat obscure the stitch details.

While I would like to have the option to use it, I really can’t stand the feel of mohair (or other hairy yarns) against my skin - even the softest Shibui. To say nothing of the fact that it can overheat one very easily (under a coat or in a building that isn’t cold).

I’m really pleased with Rowan Fine Lace as a substitution yarn for lace-weight mohair/silk blends, although, sadly, since the company’s gone through 2 reorgs in the last year, the yarn is impossible to come by locally.

This sweater does NOT eat yarn, IMO. Admittedly, I changed it up. But I made a considerably longer garment than the one drafted and I didn’t use as much fingering-weight yarn as the pattern calls for and I only needed a bit more of the lace-weight than called for at the size I knit.