I figured out that making the medium using a gauge that’s slightly tighter than the pattern calls for ( 21 st and 27 R vs the pattern’s suggested 20 st and 28 R) will yield horizontal dimensions that are slightly smaller than the M size’s bust dimension of 42.5”. I estimate by 2”. Not sure how much shorter the piece will be, at this point (I think one knits this to measurements, not by rows, so it shouldn’t be an issue). But I need a shorter length than most, in most pieces, and this one is rather long looking to begin with. I may need to shorten even more than my gauge allows for.
I ended up making a ton of changes on the fly which basically amount to:
- making a med (stitch-wise) in the skirt section (unnecessary but I did make the pieces slightly shorter, which given that they hang on the bias, means slightly smaller in circumference too).
- I made my own modified size, given that I didn’t get gauge, but this fell somewhere (stitch-wise) between med in the skirt and the small (re: side front) and xs (for the back)
- I did use 42 stitches on the front rib, which prob was not necessary given my very giving yarn.
- I shortened the torso above the skirt by about 1.5 - 2 inches. This is because a) I’m short and short-waisted and b) the yarn I’m using has bamboo so it will stretch.
Note for small people with large busts: You can make the small in all places but the med for the ribbing if you want a bit more coverage in the boobs. Just need to ensure that all of the bits (shoulder, neck) will align.
As everyone says, this pattern is ingenious but it’s not for beginners if you intend to change the sizing. You need to be able to envision how it will come together in order to effectively resize it. I’ll give this design credit for maximizing clean lines with a bias cut and asymmetric silhouette. It’s interesting but not complicated looking.
I REALLY disliked the Kitchener stitch in rib (and I’m not one of those people who doesn’t like grafting). I tried it the Tech Knitter way and the Lucy Hague way. While Tech Knitter’s version lines things up perfectly, it was so complicated to keep all of the stitches (on 4 needles) that, after wrecking things to the tune of 3 hours, I decided to go with the imperfect method and I feel the slight jog in the join may too visible for my liking (at least pre-blocking - now that it’s blocking I can’t seem to tell anymore). So I’m on the fence about whether I’d prefer 3 needle bind off at the neck. Proceed at your own risk. If you generally have issues with grafting, this probably isn’t going to be your fave thing to do.
OK, it’s blocked and the fit is gorgeous. The drape of the fabric is incomparable. This yarn is something! My grafting worked out just fine - totally invisible unless you stare at it with a microscope. The one thing I’d change is the width of the shoulder, were I to make this garment again. I think each shoulder could be an inch narrower (5 or 6 stitches on the armscye side of the front and back sides.