I want both socks to match as exactly as possible so wound off a few yards of one skein so they would both have the same “starting” point.
This yarn is very addictive - it’s very hard to put the sock down because I can’t wait to see how the next colour pattern will form. ;)
The knitted fabric feels wonderful - woolly and squishy but also soft at the same time.
Approx. total yardage used: MC - 73 grams (336 yds) CC - 23 grams (106 yds)
My favourite stretchy cast-on that I use for top-down socks is June Hiatt’s double-needle (rolled) cast on from her book The Principles of Knitting (pages 49-50 in the 2nd Edition). It really is the stretchiest cast on ever and bounces back perfectly and has a lovely edge. You use your working needle and another needle that’s one or two sizes smaller. When the cast on is done, you simply remove the smaller needle.
It’s hard to find video tutorials, but this one is pretty good. It may seem tricky at first, but if you watch it over and over a few times, you’ll get the hang of it and then you’ll see it’s actually super easy. You can mute the sound since there’s no actual narration.
There is also a PDF with illustrations that June created for The Knitting Universe that explains the cast on: http://www.knittinguniverse.com/downloads/hiatt/Two_Needle_Cast_On.pdf
Next time, will definitely follow Kate Atherley’s excellent instructions from her book Custom Socks re high arch (heel diagonal area) as this area turned out a bit snug - quite wearable, but a bit snug for my liking.
Made to fit 10” long foot - sock measures 9½” from heel to toe. Cast on 72 sts.
8” cuff, including 1½” ribbing - (16 rnds)
On all rows of heel flap, slip first stitch purlwise: on RS rows, slip with yarn in back, on WS rows slip with yarn in front.
Heel turn - sl 1, p19 sts, p2tog, p1, turn… Continued as per men’s pattern instructions.
Decreased toe to 12 sts each needled (total 24 sts) before working Kitchener stitch.