2015: Frogged to recover the yarn for another project. The fit on this was never quite right (not the pattern’s fault, I am shaped like a weird potato) and the colour wasn’t quite for me.
Swatch gauge: 26st x 37rw per 4”
I added 8” to the lower edge then reduced with my own A-line shaping, instead of the written bust/waist shaping.
I made my stitch count match that of pattern size 10 at under-bust level, and from there up knitted precisely to directions (with the exception of sleeve length, shortened because I had a limited amount of yarn).
When I put it on the tops of the bands wanted to overlap a lot - if I had put buttons on so the button bands were held together all the way up there would have been significant gaping at the neckline. So I just let it hang how it wanted to and used one shell button at the top, with a snap underneath.
LOVED the attention to detail in the pattern writing - all of the shaping fits perfectly into the slip stitch pattern, there’s always a nice edge to pick up from when you need it, etc. Thoughtful techniques and a pleasure to knit.
More info on my shaping, as requested in the comments:
I figured out how many stitches I needed at the bottom hem (based on stitch gauge and my measurements), then subtracted the number of bust-area stitches from the pattern for the size I made at the top to get the number of decreases. Then I divided that by four since I was placing the decreases in four spots, about 2” in from each side front and back.
Finally, I worked out the number of rows I’d be making the decreases over (based on row gauge and the schematic), and thus how many rows between each set of decreases. I popped in a marker at each decrease location about 1” after the ribbing, and off I went.
This is the basic calculation process I use for all my sweaters, though the number of decrease points and their location depends on the style. If I’m working top down I do the same thing, but with increases instead!