Used 3.25mm circular for the knitting the main body of the scarf. Used the 2.75mm circular for the provisional winding CO. Used a 0.50mm hook to attach all beads. Used a 3.00mm crochet hook for the beaded crochet bind off.

Beads used:(far left and far right beads in yarn/beads photo)
#8 Toho gold lined rainbow light sapphire (most of the 25g tube)
#6 Toho gold lined light Montana blue (~1” or 20%)

Beading basically as per KimDenise. I highlighted my charts to indicate the stitches I wanted to bead after working that stitch (it was easier to add the bead on the next row before working the stitch).

• Mesh: using size 8/0, added on right side (odd) rows to the middle of three knit stiches from the previous row, before knitting the stitch. KimDenise added the bead after knitting the stitch; just an aesthetic difference :)

Note to self: next time add the beads per KimDenise i.e. a row later than I added them here. Once blocked the beads sat too high from the centre of the ‘blobs’

• Triangles: using size 8/0, added on wrong side (even) rows to the SSK stitches from the previous row, before purling the stitch. I only beaded the ssk stitches that sat between yarn overs so as to not have beads sitting next to the edging (again, an aesthetic difference)

• Fan spokes: using size 8/0, added on wrong side (even) rows to both the SSK and K2tog stitches before purling the stitches.

• Edging: using size 6/0, added to the 5th chain of the 10-chain loop crochet bind off.

Other mods:
- I used directional decreases either side of the knit stitch in the mesh charts /_\ instead of always using K2tog (I marked the directional decreases on the charts in red pencil so I wouldn’t forget!)

• on the wrong side (even) rows in the mesh charts and in fan chart G, instead of using the p3tog which creates a directional double decrease, I used a centred double decrease = (slip 1 stitch knitwise) x2, return both stitches to left needle. Insert right needle from the back through the 2nd then the 1st stitch and slip onto right needle. Purl the next stitch on the left needle, pass the 2 slipped stitches over. It sounds painful, but you really get into a groove after the first one or two :) I love aesthetics! ;D

• I worked 6 reps of chart E

One lace rep = 6cm (h) x 15.5cm (w) 2.5” x 6”
Not quite on gauge, but not properly blocked either ;)

20/9/13: Started this at 11:30pm. The provisional winding CO is very quick, very easy, and kinda easy to stuff up if you’re not paying attention. Make sure you use the correct needle when you start to knit your very first row! Oh, and make sure you ‘knit’ row 0 on the set up Chart A (don’t assume you knit all of the stitches!). Finished Chart A (set up) in 30min (going slowly to get the hang of this yarn, and ensure I don’t make a mistake!). I don’t think this yarn will tolerant too much tinking/frogging.

25/9/13: Three lace repeats done. I’m enjoying using this yarn; the plies aren’t too splity at all. I might get some more this weekend in Tassie, if it’s available.

3/10/13: Started the 5th lace repeat. Quite easy as long as you remember which pattern row you are up to! Semi-memorized atm :)

11/10/13: Slowly working away at this… finished the 7th repeat; onto the final repeat

15/11/13: Finished the 2nd lace repeat of the second half

3/12/13: Onto chart D (beaded mesh) of the 2nd half.

8/12/13: Finished 6 repeats for chart D (beaded mesh) of 2nd half.

13/12/13: Finished the 2nd beaded crochet bind off. I hope to block this on the weekend and be FINISHED finished!

Yarn left after: first half; second half
Ball #1 ~50g; Ball #2 ~53g
1st lace rep = 45g; 48.3g
2nd lace rep = 43g; 45.5g
3rd lace rep = 40g; 42.6g
4th lace rep = 37.4g; 39.5g
5th lace rep = 34.5g; 37.0g
6th lace rep = 31.5g; 34.2g
7th lace rep = 28.7g; 30.7g
8th lace rep = 25.5g; 28.0g
Chart D = 22.5g; 25.0g
Chart E (6 reps) = 18.0g; 20.4g
Garterish border = 16.8g; 19.4g
Chart G = 13.4g; 16.2g
Chart H = 11.4g; 14.2g
End = 4.0g; 7.4g